Why don't we just build a window? Part Two.

Day One of window building is now complete.

We started the day with a trip across town to Hardwick’s hardware store, in search of a window-sash router bit set. In fact, we bought a sash bit last night at Rockler, but I pretty much decided to return it before we left the store. There are two kinds of this bit, a single bit with a reversable piece, and a two bit set. Rockler had the single bit, but I really wanted the two bit set. After completed, I am debating on decorating with cellular shades or some other form of window coverings. Just a thought.

The sash bit is what we’ll use to create the profile on the inside edge of the sash, along the glass. The only profile available (from 4 different router bit manufacturers, I might add) is a “squooshed ogee” (dad says “flattened ogee”). Which is fine with me, although it isn’t a 100% match for our existing windows, which I like. The bit that cuts this profile also has a separate cutter that cuts a rabbet for the glass. Once you have the profile cut in the stiles and rails, you need to cope the rails. The joint where the rails and stiles meet is complex. In our case the rail has a single tennon that slots into a mortise on the stile. Because the ogee profile extends the full length of the stile, there has to be a corresponding cope in he rail. The single bit type of sash profile cutter cant cut a cope like this when there is a tennon in the way. (With no tennon, you can reverse the cutter on the bit to make a cope for the profile.) The second bit in the two bit set is designed to cut the cope when there is a tennon - it has a flat top that rides flush to the tennon.

In any event, this morning we went in search of a two-bit sash bit set. I know of three manufactures that make this type of bit: Amana, Freud, and CMT. Freud is the cheapest; roughly $100. The Amana set is a little more, and the CMT one is advertised at $200. Rockler carries Freud, but they didn’t stock these bits. I knew Hardwicks carried Amana, so we headed there this morning after coffee.

Of course, they had a spot in the case for the bits we wanted, but the bit itself was missing. An employee confirmed - they were sold out.

So we headed to Woodcraft. Woodcraft carries thier own house-brand of bits, Whiteside bits, and CMT. (Incidentally, while in the store, I overheard that they’re going to now sell Freud bits too). We quickly determined that they had the CMT set, for $204. Ouch. My backup plan was to overnight the Freud set from Amazon.com, but I decided to ignore the pain signals from my wallet and just get the bits. I can sell them on Ebay after I make all the sashes.

I also bought a new set of planer blades for my Dewalt 732 planer. My existing set has been sharpened a few times, and they’re in need of resharpening again - badly. Rather than spend an hour doing this I spent another $47 for a new set of knives. I’m glad I did, they cut silky smooth.

The first task was to plane down the blanks I’d glued up a few weeks ago to the correct thickness (our design calls for 1 9/16”). (My blanks are laminated layers of fir, which I salvaged from old flooring I had lying around.)

Once we had the blanks to the right thickness, we ran them through the router table to test out the new profile bit. I don’t know if I could tell that it cut $100 better than the Amana option, but it made a good cut. The rabbet profile it cut wasn’t the right size for our design, so the next step is to cut that out on the Sawstop.

Next we cut the rails and stiles to length. For this window, the lower sash is 48x44, the upper is 48x19.

Now, the hard part: making the mortise and tennons. I have a mortising jig for the table saw, but getting it set up was a bit tricky. It’s an inexpensive model and some of the adjustments are a pain to make. Once set up, it’s pretty easy to clamp the workpiece in and push it through the blade. The tricky part is double checking all measurements - trying to be as dead-on accurate as possible. Making the cuts themselves is a bit nerve wracking since we dont have any spare blanks to use if we make a mistake. So far we’re not aware of any mistakes.

But that’s about as far as we got. The real test will come tomorrow when we cut the copes (with the 2nd router bit) and slide the joints together. Will they be nice and tight? Stay tuned.